lilmakeuptips

Archive for May 2011

Linda Mason is an icon in makeup artistry, at the forefront of a revolution in makeup for fashion shows, working with top designers like Helena Rubenstein, Gaultier and Steven Meisel.  She worked with many of the top models in the industry, including Carol Alt and Cindy Crawford, and celebrities from Cameron Diaz to Joan Jett.  Mason brought incredible creativity, a sense of the theatrical, and a love of color that remains a major influence in the industry today.

In more recent years, Linda Mason has dedicated herself to her own cosmetics line (Linda Mason Elements), educating future artists, and publishing books on makeup and makeup application, including the very popular Eye Candy.  I won’t go into a long review of the book here, but it is certainly one of my favorites — with 55 eye looks featured, it’s a consistent source of inspiration.  What makes Linda Mason so special is her use of color … combinations and techniques that are pretty, evocative, and daring.

I had the honor to participate in a workshop in Chicago with Linda Mason at Makeup First School this week.  I was able to watch her work on two fellow participants while she talked about her career and gave us some tips for thinking about color and working with various eye shapes.  Next, we got to work on each other, applying eye looks inspired by one of the designs featured in Eye Candy.  We were asked to challenge ourselves, so I chose a theatrical eye look with a mod-60’s vibe called “Odyssey.” Jackie, my fellow workshop participant, graciously allowed me to do this dramatic look on her eyes, and even posed with the original look from the book for me!  The eye makeup was applied with cream Flash Color in black and white from Makeup Forever, then set with corresponding white and black eyeshadow and translucent powder.  A light application of Lancome’s Electric Pink long-wear gloss was applied to lips to complete the look.

The workshop really got me inspired, and meeting Linda Mason in person was wonderful.  She wrote in my copy of Eye Candy, “Keep experimenting.”   I promise, I will, Linda Mason, I will!!

LIL

It was time to renew my MUA discount privileges with Makeup Forever (MUFE), the brand founded by French makeup artist and painter/sculptor Dany Sanz which was recently purchased by Lancome/L’Oreal and is on its way to becoming a major consumer as well as professional-preferred makeup brand in the U.S..  Fortunately, I was going to be in New York City with enough time to stop by the MUFE PRO Store on 12th Street, so I collected my credentials and spent a brief afternoon doing a little shopping!

The store is not fancy or overly frou-frou, as if to say “we’re serious about the art of makeup; we don’t need big fancy banners or marketing in our store.”  And no, they don’t — I have consistently found Makeup Forever products to be highly pigmented, long-lasting, and of excellent quality.  Their history is based in the theatre and in face/body painting — Dany Sanz’s career as a makeup artist started with face/body painting for nightclubs, and she is especially committed to the art form of body painting at her Makeup Academy in Paris.  I have also heard that the brand is preferred by the performers with Cirque du Soleil for the high pigmentation and staying power.

The items I took a moment to peruse (and purchase!) included the Metal Powder (gold), Uplight liquid highlighters, and, for myself, a bottle of the HD Liquid Foundation.  Oh yes, I love them all. 

The HD Liquid Foundation has been on my list for some time, but with all the media swirling around their “Unretouched” campaign featuring the foundation, I had to wear it myself for a couple of weeks and give my own brief review.  For those that haven’t seen the “Unretouched” ad campaign, the ads feature models wearing MUFE makeup, including the HD Foundation.  The ads state that the pictures are not Photoshopped, something which made the entire beauty industry gasp when the ads appeared, as if Photoshop has been used to erase perceived flaws in a person or photo since the first color photograph (it hasn’t, although airbrushing photographs certainly has been around since the 1930’s for movie stars and other celebrities).  I will say that for the face, I definitely prefer the HD Liquid Foundation to their liquid foundation for face and body, which I find tends to separate and needs a good hearty shaking before each use.  The coverage of the HD Foundation is light to medium but totally buildable — I have a lot of broken capillaries and redness, especially on my cheeks, nose, and chin, and with this foundation I find I only need to use concealer on only the most offensive spots.  I can’t believe I’m actually using less concealer than before!  It feels light and comfortable on the skin.  I also noticed that it doesn’t “separate” suddenly or appear have a different texture to it after using powder to set.  You will definitely want to powder it lightly (their HD Finishing Powder is also fantastic) after application to set it.  I also find the foundation durable — once set with powder, it has good staying power.  My oily skin doesn’t seem to break it up/oxidize it too much as the day progresses.  Since you don’t need a lot of the product to get decent coverage, it’s not settling into fine lines (just remember to powder lightly, you only need a tiny bit to set this makeup!);  you are simply left with good-looking skin that doesn’t look cakey, flakey, creasy, or dull.  For a really long day, pack some blotting papers and pressed powder in your purse to touch up oily areas like the nose and chin.  Overall, I highly recommend this foundation.  I believe I count 26 shades in this foundation line, which gives MUAs and makeup junkies alike a near-guarantee of a perfect match to their skin tone.

Dewy skin is still very in, and Makeup Forever has recently released a liquid luminizer called Uplight.  The company says on its website that the product contains 70% water and can used alone, on top of foundation, or mixed with liquid or light cream foundation.  Its reflective pigments are available in “pearly”, “silky” and “sparkling,” depending on the shade you choose.  These descriptors are pretty accurate — the “sparkling” shades will have more reflection with a crushed diamond look, whereas the other shades or more subtle.  To me, even the “sparkling” shades are not glittery.  But what I love most about these is the variety of shades available — from the usual pearl/white highlighter to a golden peach, a light copper bronze, and even a pink.  I’ve been experimenting with a few of these and overall I’m extremely satisfied with this product and may eventually get all the shades.  It blends easily, and the selection of shades is excellent for makeup artists and makeup consumers who want more than just the usual pearly white or glittery white highlighter in their kit.  My only caveat — this is more gel-like in texture than some liquid highlighters out there and therefore is not suggested for use with an airbrush unless you can thin it first.

Finally, I just had to pick up some gold Metal Powder.  After all, summer will even come to Chicago eventually, and my clients and models will love these!  Many makeup lines only have one metallic gold powder or pigment, but not MUFE.  This collection has FOUR distinct gold shades in a silky mineral powder (a touch of silica gives the powder a soft feel and look).  The colors include Shade 1/Sunflower Gold (yellow gold), Shade 2/Maize Gold (coopery brown), Shade 3/Honey Gold (darker, burnished antique gold), and Shade 4/Olive Gold.  The powders can be used anywhere — eyes, lips, cheeks — and have a true metal feel without being disco-ball shiny.  Oooo, sooooo pretty.

Due to budget and space constraints in my suitcase, I had to leave some Uplight shade, Metal Powders, and more behind in NYC, but as MUFE remains one of my favorite brands, I’m sure to be getting more very soon!

Author’s Note:  It IS unfortunate that MUFE does not have a PRO store in the Midwest – in order to take advantage of my discount, I have to call the store in NYC and have them ship to me.  I’m a tactile person when it comes to makeup generally — I like to feel  the product packaging in my hand, and test the makeup on my skin to see the pigmentation level and feel the texture.  Plus, there’s that immediacy when you see something you want and just pick it up on the spot.  I can only hope that the brand expands to the point where they feel it’s viable to open up a PRO store in Chicago!

LIL



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  • lilmakeuptips: Thanks for your comment! I got your note on the smoky eye and will do a post on the topic soon!
  • Wicked Red: You look REALLY good in those Lil. Thanks for sharing.
  • lilmakeuptips: Thank you so much Emil! I hope to have a New Year's makeup blog entry posted tomorrow ... maybe even a webcam if I can get it done ...

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